Beyond Fashion At Saatchi Gallery
In the world of fashion, where style and substance often vie for dominance, the Saatchi Gallery's latest exhibition, Beyond Fashion, is a refreshing reminder that the two can coexist harmoniously. The show is a celebration of the fashion photographers who have transcended the mere presentation of clothing and accessories, using their lenses to capture something far more profound—our aspirations and the very boundaries of creativity itself!
One of the standout pieces in the exhibition is Peter Lindbergh’s iconic Santa Monica photograph, featuring supermodels Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista in a playful moment on a Los Angeles beach. What Lindbergh may not have realized at the time was that this image would not only define his career but also mark a turning point in the history of fashion photography. It’s one of over 100 works on display, showcasing how these photographers have moved beyond the superficial to explore more meaningful narratives.
The exhibition, curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer, brings together the works of 48 photographers, including: Ellen von Unwerth, Mondino, Teller, Paolo Roversi, and Miles Aldridge. These artists have long been recognized for their ability to push the limits of fashion photography, blurring the lines between editorial work, advertising, and artistic expression. Their contributions, alongside those of the next generation of fashion photographers like Daniel Sannwald, Emma Summerton, and Horst Diekgerdes, highlight the ever-evolving nature of this art form.
Other highlights include: SHOWstudio, the pioneering platform founded by Nick Knight, is well-represented, alongside works from emerging photographers like Chinese artist Feng Li, Coco Capitán—known for her collaborations with Gucci—and Norwegian photographer Sølve Sundsbø. These artists are not just capturing images; they are crafting visual narratives that challenge and expand the very definition of fashion photography. As Herschdorfer notes, the rise of a broader visual language has elevated fashion photography to an art form that commands the attention of museums, galleries, and collectors worldwide. It’s no longer just about selling handbags; it’s about making statements, telling stories, and pushing creative boundaries.
The exhibition concludes with “Under Your Smell”, an innovative installation by students from ECAL that offers a visual interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s perfumes, blending scent and imagery to create stories of transgression and fantasy.
Cover Daniel Sannwald, Garage Magazine, Fall-Winter, 2014